Ring Case Study 17 - From Vintage Solitaire to Vintage Cluster

A much beloved engagement ring was not working with the wedding ring. We helped our client decide what it was she wanted her ring to be and turned it into a dazzling delight.

Piece: Vintage styled platinum cluster ring with original gold shank inlaid in new band

Activity: To work a solution for client so she could enjoy wearing her engagement ring with her wedding ring

Materials: Platinum, Old Cut Diamonds, Gold

Our client was upset. She and her husband had spent a lovely day when they had found the perfect engagement ring, they had their dream wedding and she was besotted by her simple wedding ring. Her issue had been that she didn't like the two rings together. It wasn't as if she hadn't given this a lot of thought - she had tried ring after ring! However, it wasn't working for her and it was making her miserable.

The reasons for this are different for every wearer. She had her own set of ground rules for what she wanted to achieve as well, the challenge was getting an exact visual of the ring she wanted, as this was very important - she didn't want to feel any regrets with the new ring - ever!

So this was an intensive project to get right. Of course we did though!

Creative Beginnings

As with all projects, we had a discussion about everything, and I then asked client to start sending images, which I identified her key themes out of, and then started to narrow and throw things back at her. It became pretty apparant that actually what my client loved most is vintage style jewellery, and we started looking at cluster settings, which was great as it narrowed everything down nicely!

Hand drawn cluster ring sketches and cluster ring ideas shown to client.
We started sharing thoughts and images, me doing scrawls and layouts, and client online!

Design Development

Once we knew about this we could start refining sketches, and I got Sophie, my lovely and skilled designer to start making more of the shape and style. From there we went to CAD - the designer being clear about the shape of the diamond in question and we modelled up a ring - taking into account on the lower images, that it was very important that the engagement ring shank was also kept for the new design, if the diamond was the heart of the ring, the shank was the soul.

Different images showing design progress for vintage style diamond cluster ring, hand drawn and digital.

Model Making

While model making incurs a charge, it is a very useful tool if a client is really concerned about the overall appearance of their ring, or if we have a particular concern about fit. Which in this instance was all of the above, we wanted to ensure ring was going to sit on hand nicely, and also she cold see the shape and side on her hand.

Yellow resin 3D printed model of a vintage cluster ring.
This was a 3D printout from the CAD design of the cluster ring - made to give a slightly better idea of how ring was going to look and the size. The actual casting model looks slightly different because it is in components.

Cast Components

Client loved wax and signed off quickly, so components could go to casting. Once these were returned they had to be turned into the ring;

Platinum cast components to make vintage style cluster ring (5 in total) and the same components connected and assembled with gold ring inlaid.
Left hand image shows the 5 components cast to make this ring, and four of them assembled on the right hand image. Here you really get a feel for the vintage style of the cluster ring - the actual diamond collet was added once the ring had been polished up including the interior.

Final Piece

And the end result. It is big and dazzling and client LOVES it. We're really happy we got the vintage feel of the cluster ring ring, even though it was made using very modern methods.

Vintage cluster ring on side showing centre diamond and surrounding stones.
The finished piece - side stones sourced were antique cuts as well, which was important to ensure that they matched the centre stone nicely.
Vintage cluster ring held in hand. Old cut centre diamond with 10 round old cut side stones and two small baguette side stones.
Vintage style cluster engagement ring worn on finger showing large size of ring head.
As you can see - it is rather magnificent!
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